By Perrin
1. Wake with the paper boy.
The curtain rises on Angkor Wat.
Don’t take this literally. In our experience, you’ll be waiting awhile for a paper boy to show up in Cambodia.
On a serious note: as introductions go, a Siem Reap sunrise wields greater panache than even the best-paid show host. Growing light casts into relief profiles of 12th century “homes of gods.” Mirror-like moats and untamed silk trees frame the stage, and visitors gasp reverently as the rugged scene illuminates. It’s as though the curtain has risen on opening night.
Another benefit: An early start is the first defense against equatorial climate. A trek in midday heat can inspire a body to sweat through two outfits in under two hours. Fact.
2. Get in with the out crowd.
The tourist-free entrance to Banteay Srei.
Cambodian government surveys estimate that 57% of all visitors to the country tour Anchor Wat, specifically, during their stay. It’s up-and-coming neighbor, Ta Prohm, has seen similar crowds ever since Angelina Jolie staged a showdown there in Tomb Raider in 2001.
Though those two sanctuaries are a highlight of any trip, there are over thirty other temples that welcome visitors. These less-frequently others are more likely to provide the “Oo la-la!” experience of stumbling upon a deserted temple that looks like it has not been touched for centuries. Mossy, crumbling temples tower as high as the centuries-old trees that shroud them. Peaceful faces of Hindu and Buddhist deities, carved from stone panels the size of a Wal-Mart storefront, stare overhead. Sculpted elephant tusks jab from walls. It’s easy to imagine how explorers must have felt when happening upon the temples for the first time.
3. Ditch the guide.
Climbing a Banyan tree that is swallowing a doorway.
Spend at least one day to let your senses reign independently. Climb refrigerator-sized blocks that have fallen from temple walls. Sniff the fig trees. Lick up the sugary candy goo that the local children force you to buy. You’ll feel like Jane of the Jungle, Indiana Jones, or at least a five year-old enjoying a jungle gym.
4. Enjoy a day (or several) off.
Getting groovy with the Apsara dancers.
These wats are large. Even with a car or tuk tuk to drive you between each, trekking within the buildings themselves is literally breathtaking. Take a day in Siem Reap city to leisurely explore the artisans markets, silk-making factories and $3 massages.
5. When the sensory overload has subsided, listen.
Two little locals couldn't resist creeping in for a look as our guide Munny sketched Khmer symbols.
The more famous wats have seen enough (well-documented) action to inspire many a Hollywood mega series, so let a personal guide tell you about it. Angkor’s certified tour guides attend months of preparatory schooling and pass a series of rigorous exams, yet they charge only about $20/day.
Traveling in a small group (2-3 people) makes a huge difference. While large tours stick to wide passageways, our pack of three was able poke into munchkin-size rooms and sidle down shoulder-width alleys.
Our guide Munny (that’s Cambodian for “smart”) stood my height at 5’2” and smiled more than Mr. Rogers. He sported a starched yellow shirt and trim black visor and slacks. He reminded me of the Cheerio’s bee.
Within 5 minutes with Munny, we learned that he was in the midst of reading a book on the history of rice patties, just for fun. He’s the type of guy you wish you hadn’t asked about rice patties. But he’s also the type of guy you want to take you to Angkor Wat.
For reflection
Scores female sculptures throughout the temples stand in perfectly in tact – except for the fact that their breasts have gone missing. Gaping holes and indentations indicate that the mounds have been carefully removed.
One has to wonder: Are these “take-aways” good luck?
A full set! Two uniquely intact Apsara dancer figurines at Banteay Srei.
